Today I am going to give you a full walk-through on how I install an Anchor Wizard on my Wilderness Systems ATAK 120. This install will work on just about any and all kayaks out there, and I have personally installed this setup on 3 different models of kayaks without any issues.
Before I jump right into the “how-to”, please allow me to give you a little background on the Anchor Wizard itself, and how I came to use this amazing little product. Anchor Wizard has created a complete kayak anchor system with a revolutionary spool design to contain up to 60 feet of 1/8″ anchor line. Turn the handle backward to drop your anchor in a free-spool release, with the ability to regulate the speed of the drop by “feathering” the handle back and forth. A simple forward crank of the handle in the clockwise direction will lock the spool and keep you anchored in place while you fish away without fighting the wind or current. When you are ready to move to a new fishing spot, simply crank the spool forward to take up the line until the anchor slides into the flanged nosepiece tube, and is safely stowed out of the water and atop your kayak.
Over the last several years I have been very dedicated to using a Stakeout Pole, and I still believe they certainly have their place in helping hold your kayak in position. I have been concentrating more time fishing in rivers, and I was finding that I was being limited to where I could anchor up or stakeout while fishing on the rivers in the southeast. So I made the plunge to invest in a slick all-in-one anchoring system, and I have not looked back since.
So let’s start with the tools need for the install of the Anchor Wizard on your kayak. You will need an Anchor Wizard System, Sharpie, a Drill with 1/8” Drill Bit, Caulk Gun with Lexal or Marine Goop, YakAttack GT175 8” rail, and a 5/32” Allen Wrench, Phillips Head Screwdriver, . As I grow through the various steps I will explain how and why I use each of the tools listed above. The overall install is easy, only takes about 15 minutes, and the hardest part is knowingly putting holes in your kayak.
The First step is to determine where you are going to install your GT175 8” rail. I prefer the 8” rail for two reasons, one it gives you plenty of real estate to install your Anchor Chute, and the 8” rail is super strong. Strength is important for when you are anchoring up in heavier currents found in moving water and/or coastal areas when dealing with tidal conditions. On all my boats I have installed on front or nose of my boats, it just seems to work best for the way I mostly fish.
Up next, I use my sharpie to outline two opposite corners of the GT175 rail, take your time and make sure this is the permanent location you want your setup at. You must also take in consideration the movement of the Anchor Chute, because when you deploy the anchor the chute is going to slide forward and drop downward at 90 degrees.
Once you have the location of the rail figured out, line up the corners from where you have them marked. Grab your drill with the 1/8” drill bit installed in your strong hand, and hold the rail with the other hand. I drill a single hole in on e of the corners, and place a small drop of Lexal in the hole. Now insert the provide #10 Blunt Point Screw, (From YakAttack GT175 Rail), and tighten. Now repeat for the opposite diagonal corner.
Now that you have two screws in holding the rail in place for you, go ahead and drill out all of the other holes. Once all the holes are drilled out pull any of the remaining plastic out of your way from the holes, and place a small amount of Lexal in all of the holes. The Lexal helps ensure that your holes are water tight. Using your Phillips Head Screwdriver tighten down all of the screws for the remaining holes.
We are almost on the home stretch, grab your Anchor Chute and your 5/32” Allen Wrench, and install the Anchor Chute onto the GT175 rail, using the provided hardware from Anchor Wizard. A little tip here is before you tighten down the Anchor Chute make sure it has room to drop down the 90 degrees when you go onto anchor.
Then, install the Anchor Wizard Base in an area that it is easily reachable. I typically place mine on the left side of my boat, right around my left foot brace. To install use the provide T-Bolts from Anchor Wizard, and simply side the base into the rail on your boat, and snuggly tighten down.
The final step is to loosen the anchor line, pass it through the Anchor Chute, and attach your anchor. I use a 3lbs anchor using a carbineer or small screw on stainless steel cable. Here is another killer tip that can help you prevent from losing your anchor in a rocky river or oyster rake. Most anchors have two locations to where you can attach your anchor line, on the top of the anchor, or on the bottom. I use the bottom attachment point, and run my anchor line straight up the anchor. Near the top of the anchor put a few wraps of electrical tape around your anchor and the anchor line. Why do I do this crucial step, because if your anchor gets hung up on a rock or oyster rake you can jerk on the line, and the tape will break and this will allow your anchor to invert to come free from the rock or oyster rake. A good friend of mine Chase Tanner taught me this, and it works like a charm, and there is no need to buy a new anchor.
I hope these few steps and tips will help you install your next Anchor Wizard. The install is straight forward and the hardest part is knowing that you are going to drill into your kayak. Other than that is a walk in the park, and I guarantee this will help keep you in position longer and easier to catch more fish. If you see me on the water or out at a Demo Day stop by and you are more than welcome to try out my Anchor Wizard System. Stay safe on the water, and I look forward to seeing you out on the water hammering on some fish.
Fly Recipe: Kalamari Charlie-A Fly For Flats Fishermen Next Post:
4th Annual Inshore Xtreme Challenge Tournament